Summer = Rock
2023 - Alpine / Rock climbing
After enjoying the snow-covered glaciers on skis until mid June, the summer season went on mainly on rocks. From the Mont Blanc to the Dolomites, and of course in the Valais. Rock ridges and faces were again on the front page. Adapting to conditions has always been fundamental for guides. Today, more than ever, mixed, snow, and ice climbs must be attempted with the advantage of good conditions. To be at the right place at the right time is the key to enjoy alpine climbs.
A winter spring
14.05.2023 - Fabulous high mountains skiing
Winter is here !
22.01.2023 - Ski - Freeride
Pointe de Bazel 3440 m - Pilier Sud
09.09.2022 - Alpine rock
Pizzo Badile 3308m
31.07.2022 - La Cassin
A summer season "on the rocks"
Ski and Ice
Lot of sun, enough snow and ice. We had a great winter !
01.11.2021 - Rebolting
Time has arrived to rebolt the routes that have aged badly. Years and climate, but also the material used and the run out style destroy the quality of some local classics. To recycle a beautiful line, hoping for frequent and happy repetitions is very enjoyable. With the agreement, or even better the help of the first climbers, time and energy, it will take several days of work for each project. To drill, point after point at the same spot, without reflection makes no sense. You have to try, think, confirm and finally do it with precision and know-how. Hiking trails, vias ferratas and other cycling trails are maintained by municipal/cantonal employees. The maintenance of climbing routes remains a task assumed by a handful of passionate climbers.
Pic Adolphe Rey
29.08.2021 - Mont-Blanc Granite
What a line, a scenery, the perfect route ! The Bettembourg / Thivierge (1975) climbs a succession of cracks and dihedral on the best granite.
Mid summer 2021
After a long season on the skis, it's a pleasure to be back on the rocks. Between two 4000er, to discover some new routes and even to repeat some classics is a pleasure. Excepted some incursions through the border into the Valle d'Aosta, this year again, we climb in CH. I spend also a lot of time on the new edition of Entremont Escalades. I'm looking forwards to present you this guidebook in spring 2022.
Winter is here
Dec 2020 - Ski & Ice
After a very dry, warm and sunny November, winter is here. Little snow, little ice but who looks for it will find something. Experience will help when conditions are locally good but tricky.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year !
Winter 2020 - 2021
Winter in Paradise !
A few shots from an excellent winter season despite the Covid. Thanks to low temperatures and frequent storms, we will enjoy an extended ski touring season. Keep your skis ready, for a few more trips across glaciers and to high peaks.
Rock climbing - Mountaineering
Summer 2020 was highly perturbated by the Covid-19. So many dreams or projects haven't been achieved, but let's think positive for a brighter future. Despite all restricted regulations, we've been climbing to remote places and I want to thanks every partner for their confidence and motivation. See you soon for more adventures.
Grand Combin 4314 m
31.05.2020 - Himalaya at home !
Au départ de la cabane Panossière, juste au-dessus de la maison, l'ascension du Grand Combin se mérite. Après avoir longé et négocié la moraine latérale du glacier de Corbassière, de longs faux plats nous amènent au plateau du Déjeuner. Pause obligatoire et méritée, au soleil, pour chausser les crampons. Ce printemps, le couloir du Gardien et ses séracs, ferment la porte aux skieurs-alpinistes du dimanche. Il faut maitriser la glace raide, 2 longueurs de 40 m sans trembler, pour atteindre la cote 4000 m. Un long virage sous le Combin de Valsorey, pour contourner d'énormes crevasses et quelques conversions nous conduisent non pas à la croix, mais à l'antenne somitale. Arrivés à 4314 mètres, on n'est pas rentré, il faudra trouver le bon passage dissimulé entre rimées, crevasses et séracs si l'on veut éviter de se retrouver trop bas et de remonter. Et jamais personne ne veut remonter pour descendre. Ici, la majorité des summiters n'y échappent pas... Le mur de la Côte, toujours plus long, glacé et raide au fil des ans se négocient aujourd'hui en deux rappels skis aux pieds. Et déjà, l'angoisse nous prend aux tripes en basculant dans le Corridor sous la menace de séracs-immeubles. Ouf, de retour au plateau du Déjeuner, tout s'est bien déroulé. Il ne reste plus qu'à rejoindre Riton à Panossière pour un succulent risotto au safran. Quelle belle journée là-haut !
Rimpfischhorn 4199 m
17.05.2020 - Ski & Mountaineering
Here we go again ! Finally, mountain guides are allowed from the 11th of Mai to guide ! And we take advantage of it like last week-end by climbing the Rimpfischhorn. From the Täschhütte, this 4000er, give to the alpinist the possibility to climb a big peak and save the knees on the way down. What a great day up there! The ski season is not over yet, and we're launching the climbing season.
Retrospective winter 19/20
Game over ?
Same as last few years we saw no transition between summer and winter. After a few storms, snow conditions were excellent from mid December above 1600 m and allow us to enjoy must of the classics. Christmas and New Year's period, like always, was pretty busy and pushed me off the busiest slopes. To discover, try and share new trips is still a great source of motivation year after year.
Than came, Covid-19, an unpleaseant guest for the guide's family and the tourismus. All Swiss ski lifts closed on the 13th of March, followed by a ban of guiding from the 16th. From that day we are slowing down our daily routine, but keeping busy in other ways. Guiding trips could start again on the 11h of May, I cross my fingers. There's a lot of snow in the high mountains and May could be promising. Keep healthy, motivated and wax your skis.
Thanks for your confidence and see you soon on the snow, the ice or the rock.
Indian summer in the Alps
2019 - Alpine climbing
Back in Switzerland I enjoyed guiding on some local classics in Entremont and Tessin.
Pontresina, was the headquarter for mountain-guide education in September. We climbed in Bergell and Bernina ranges, included a few days over the border to Italy.
Kiwis & Kangurus
Jul/Aug 2019 - NZL & AUS
To ski 7 continents is one of my dreaming projects. After Asia, with Mera Peak in 2018, I'm happy to ski New Zealand and Australian's snow. All the trip was centered on Luc's ski racing programm and it was a fabulous experience. We experienced all kind of weather and snow conditions in New Zealand and enjoyed pure nature between blue lakes and snowy mountains.
I wasn't expecting much about skiing in Australia. That was totally wrong ! Even with shorter drops than average in the Alps, the skiing is great. Plenty of snow and a very cool atmosphere.
Mai/Jun 2019 - Spring skiing
One more time the end of spring delivered great opportunities for glacier skiing. After skiing Strahlhorn, Petit Combin and Mont-Blanc, the temperature rises above 30° and everyone thought it's definitly over with skiing. It wasn't ! On the 19th of June, we skied Pigne d'Arolla taking advantage of great end of season corn snow. What a final ! It was time to move to summer mode and already think of the South hemisphere trip.
17.06.2019 - Roc en folie
New climbing route
Some photos and the topo of my last climbing route.
Description >> Roc en Folie
Best of ski 2019
Season 2018 / 2019
What an incredible season, which went too quick again ! Thanks to everebody for your fidelity and confidence!
Skiing goes on until beginning of June in the high mountains...and rock climbing as well.
Slide show >> Ski 18 / 19
Lauching the ice climbing season...
6.01.19 - Verbier-Val de Bagnes
After Italy in December, it's here where ice climbing conditions are excellent. Humidity, lack of snow and cold temperatures are forming the ice climbers play ground. When skiers are complaining about snow conditions, the ice climbers are enjoying the frozen waterfalls. Take out your ice tools and enjoy !
Mera Peak 6461 m - Nepal
Skiing above 6000 m
Nepal is definitly a land of contrasts, mixed cultures, ethnics, environment, temperatures and so much more. We are lucky guests in this beautiful country where the high mountains will stay for ever the main attraction. Despite a quick evolution during the last decade, with mobile phones, wifi, helicopter, the true Nepal still exists. What most tourists were looking for in the late sixties is still possible to find. Stray dogs and holly cows exploring garbages on the side of the road, suspicious hotels, beggars and rats still enjoy some Katmandu's streets. Many tourists are looking for that Nepal and they will find it !
Our target was to climb and ski the Mera Peak 6471 m. For success in the Himalaya as a team, we need first a good spirit. Secondly, to be ready to suffer and push our limits much more than on our proud 4000er peaks. For those who respect mountain ethics and are patient enough, will reach the summit and futhfill a life time highlight. It was a total succes for our small team with 5 summiters out of 6 members. My friends where ready to climb with determination and they beat their own altitude record step by step fighting with hypoxia. I very much enjoyed the trip, and to share my previous experiences was a must.
No accidents, strong friendship and such a great achievment to make our expedition to Mera Peak a wonderful challenge. Thanks a lot to Edouard, Charles, Christian, Pierre et Charles #2 for their confidence and positive attitude.
Slide show >> Mera Peak
Mont-Blanc Granite - July 2018
Mont-Blanc Granite offers fabulous pitches, it's a privilege to enjoy high mountains rock in summer. In Switzerland, on the Aiguille Dorées and on the Petit Clocher du Portalet, or in Chamonix, pitches after pitches we enjoyed excellent crack and slab climbing. Everytime, we have the same good feeling: to come back again and again...
Slide show >> Mont-Blanc Granite
What a ski season
What a winter, there's so much snow up in the mountains. We will enjoy ski touring until the beginning of summer.
Kandersteg ice climbing
Ice Climbing - February 2018
Kandersteg, the Swiss ice climbing Mecca, was in good shape after January's heavy snowfalls and warm temperatures.
Porto Venere - Muzzerone
Rock Climbing 27-31.11.17
In the Cinque Terri National Park, the limestone cliffs of Muzzerone are droping into the See. Climbing is developping here for more than 30 years. Offering less possibilities than Finale Ligure, the area deserve for sure a visit, especially for medium difficulty multipich routes. Fabulous rock, incredible scenary for a destination to plan again...
Ice - Haut Val de Bagnes
6 & 7.12.17 - Ice climbing
After a few cold periods, we're already lauching the ice climbing season. Even if the ski season is on for a few weeks, we enjoy repeating some classics.
Slide Show >> Summer 2017
Retrospective on the climbing season. Now we're enjoying the Indian's Summer, before the snow...
Brenta et Lavaredo
16-18.07.17 - Dolomites
Back from a short stay, in good company in Dolomiti, which allowed me to discover the Brenta's Range and to repeat the most beautiful pillar in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Affected by a journey under a heat wave, we stoped at Madonna-di-Campiglio, door to the Brenta. On the next day, we climbed the world wide renowned classic,the Campanile Basso / Fehrmann's route. The approach, directly from the car, was long enough. Return by night... It was a beautiful and long day! On the next morning, we took the road to Misurina, above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Emilio Comici's masterpiece, the Spigolo Giallo was our choice. For sure that's one of the most beautiful and audacious climbs in the Dolomiti di Cortina. Don't forget a small rack of friends and all your common sense to follow the route. On the way back home we stoppep at Arco under a burning sun and 34°! The only North-East face found on the guide book conjugated to an omnipresent wind allowed us to climb a great route before enjoying a "gelato". A trip to do again, as soon as possible...
Allalinhorn 4027m - Hohlaubgrat
15-16.05.17 - Ski Alp
From the Britannia Hut, above Sass-Fee, the Hohlaubgrat is a summer classic. To climb it, with skis, is an excellent option when you can slide all the way back to town. The approach in the sunrise on the gentle Hohlaubgletscher, is a good warm up. The upper part, much more spicy presents some ice and a mixed sections before reaching the summit. The ski area is closed for nearly a month, Allalin and Feegletscher are untracked and pretty wild in May. This spring, offering ideal conditions, definitly compensate the average quantity/quality of snow we had all season. Skis are still on stand-by for future trips...
26-27.02.17 - Trient & Combin
Spring has sprung down in the valley. It's time to ski at higher elevations, couloirs and impressive glaciers are waiting for your signature. Until mid-mai, conditions will remain excellent, there's plenty of snow above 2000 meters. After a late start of the ski season, don't hang up your skis too early, summer is too long anyway!
Chasseurs de Glace - Mauvoisin
21.12.2016 - Ice climbing
Among the numerous ice climbs located in Haut Val de Bagnes, Chasseurs de Glacee is my favorite. When the snow coverage is weak, the long approach, remains pleasant and safe. Rarely in shape, the first pitch to the base is a bonus and offers a good warm up before the Headwall. Well sheltered belays, are bolted. Thanks to Taffon for sharing such a perfect day !
Winter is here
Freeride's season is launched...
After a false start to winter in November, the Indian summer was back all December. Good snow conditions at higher altitudes and sunny weather gave us plenty of opportunities for ski touring. We had a great time despite the lack of snow. From the new year a serie of storms bringing huge ammounts of snow hit our area from the West. Now, all the Bas-Valais is covered by a thick layer of snow. Great !
Presles - Vercors
November 2017 - Multipitch
Presles, in the Vercors, propose more than 300 multipich routes of all difficulties. Vertical limestones cliff up to 300 meters, mainly South facing oriented are climbable most of the year. October and November, often offers best conditions. The sun warms pleasantly the rock and the forests are in fire. After numerous visits a decade ago, we returned to Presles last year and again this year. The classics, always beautiful, but polished by the rnumerous repetitions are next to new jewels on perfect rock and irreproachable bolting. Above the road leading to Choranche's caves, le "Fond du Cirque" sector offers a wide choice of new lines. Very inspired and generous at cleaning and bolting , Bruno Fara has opened numerous new routes there. Below, Andrea in "Shesep Ank", a major line under a generous november sun. The last day, again Andrea in "Thuryfère solitaire" where mist, traverses and verticallity remind us the ambience of Dolomiti's walls.
Granite classics - Baltschiedertal VS
02-06.09.2016 - Alpine rock
With future Swiss aspiring guides, I was lucky to climb 3 classics on best granite in the Baltschiedertal: 5 Towers of Stockhorn, Blanchet Ridge on Nesthorn and Jägerhorn. World class rock and total wilderness we found in the remote valley in Wallis. Despite a long approach, it really worth the effort if you're staying in the Baltschiederklause Hut and planning 2-3 climbs.
Mountaineering & Rock Climbing
July - August 2016
Rock, snow and ice are the ingredients of my cocktail to take advantage of the Alpine summer. The season is going on well, together with longtime partners and stable weather windows. Even if days are getting shorter, these excellent conditions will go on under our latitudes. Enjoy it...winter is still far away!
Combin de Valsorey 4184m - NW Face
10.06.2016 - The last run
To take advantage of great conditions high up and to close the 2016 season with a highlight, the Combin de Valsorey looks like an ideal project. Always ready for ski adventures, GillesleSkieur is available and the dream partner. To climb the Grand Combin in a day is a first for both of us, the ascent is long and tricky. With in mind to ski down the NW face, first skied in 1981 by the legendary Stephano de Benedetti, our motivation was pretty solid...
Slide show >> Skiing Combin de Valsorey
May is incredible !
24.05.2016 - Ski or Rock ?
Like every year the ski season stops too early, because Eastern is too early everybody says... May was snowy and cold, perfect for alpine skiing. Dolent, Combin, Haute Cime and Mt-Blanc were on my list and conditions are still excellent. Rock climbing season is on as well in the Valley. It's a great opportunity to train for bigger goals or for pleasure only. In May, do what your want: skiing, climbing, running, cycling, flying or going to the beach. Don't hesitate to contact me for a last ski adventure or some rock climbing...
Dolomiti Super Ski
07-10.03.2016 - Dolomites
After 10 visits climbing vertical rock faces in the Dolomites, it was time to ski there. A very dry start to the winter in South Tirol, like everywhere else, was not very inspiring. But, booking are confirmed and the group is highly motivated, we decided to have a go anyway. What a great inspiration and perfect timing... When we arrived in Canazei, our base camp for the week, it was still snowing on top of the 1m50 from the week ahead. Next day, around noon, the sky cleared up. We enjoyed scenic wiews of immaculated mountains. For the next 4 days, we enjoyed fresh tracks in the most impressive locations: Val Lasties, Val Mesdi, Sassolungo Scharte and the Marmolada. After late lunches, I even got a wild card, to leave lonely tracks in the steep Canalone Holzer and Joël. Thanks a lot Michèle, Jenny and Jean-Jacques!
Petit-Combin - Val de Bagnes
30.01.2016 - Heli touring
It's as good as it gets, a blue powder day, with great team in the Combin Range.
Marchand de Sable & Pilier Cordier
4-6.09.2015 - L'Envers à Cham
During the Swiss Mountain Guides final exams, we spent a week in Chamonix. We took advantage of the oportunity to climb this two classics at the Envers des Aiguilles. We enjoyed best granite, but different styles in theses fabulous routes. Thanks to the team, efficient on the rock and good company at the hut!
Petit Clocher du Portalet 2823m
22.08.2015 - Esprit de Clocher
Leaning into the Saleina's Valley, the Petit Clocher du Portalet focuses every climber's eye. Doesn't matter the route, to climb it offers an airy adventure. On the North Face, the Rémy brothers's masterpiece Etat de Choc is famous around the climbing community, i'ts like having the Yosemite at home. Two classics routes ont the South Face, Le Chic, le Chèque et le Choc, also a jewel from the climbing brothers, and the South-East Pillar offers difficulties up to 6c in the sun. Between the two, a line of hand craks cut the East Face top to bottom it's Esprit de Clocher. Bolted belays with chains, but the cracks are clean is this 8 pitches ( 7a max / 6b+ obligatory).
Slide show >>Esprit de Clocher
Piz Badile 3305m - Spigolo N
12.08.2015 - Bergell alpine rock
To climb the North Ridge on the Piz Badile , in Graubünden, offers more than 20 pitches on world class granite. Never too difficult, but all the way interesting, this route is absolutly amazing and hosts every sunny day many parties. To cross the Swiss-Italian border during a climb feels always like a travel. Even if here, in the Val Bregalia, we are definitly in the South. Thanks to Doug, and also congratulations to him for leading his pitches. Highly recommandable, aesthetic and accessible, I'll be more than happy to visit that Spigolo again...
Mt Collon 3636m - Pilier du soleil levant
28.07.2015 - Alpine rock
When we arrive in Arolla, a massive mountain closes the valley: The Mont Collon. To climb his East Pillar is a serious climb, one needs lots of alpine experience. The route, climbed in a day from Arolla guarantees a long journey. First to reach the base, than the climb and once on the summit, the longest part of the trip is still ahead... The rock, a colourful gneiss is really loose on some sections. Logic and aerial, with less than ten pitons to show the way, the itinerary will satisfy climbers enjoying wild climbs.
Monte Rosa - Silbersattel 4515 m
05.06.2015 - Canalone Marinelli
After my first descent of the Marinelli from the Zumsteinspitze in 1999, a disturbing feeling of unfinished business overwhelmed me. Certainly at the time the steepest part of the couloir was situated around 3800m…Since the glaciers have evolved. But Silvain Saudan, in 1969 had indeed skied this Toboggan slope equiped with leather boots and skis over 2 meters long. The integral of the Canalone Marinelli thus remained a major project to achieve in it’s entirety.
In spring 2015, the word was out and all the social networks were talking. With the perfect sunny weather and tracks the conditions were good. Easy, everyone was going, but there were very few contenders who dared to engage in the original extremely impressive Canalone Marinelli. To benefit optimal conditions, in my eyes it was necessary to wait for the mountain to purge, and for the snow to transform from the very top.
The team made up of guys born on skis with nerves of steal and special guest GillesleSkieur and his buddy/client who were all ready for action, in fact chomping at the bit. Good news everyone was available for D-Day. Early June, with the heatwave in the valley and 0 degrees at 4000m, the snowpack was drastically changing. All the signals were on red, but according to our analysis, often opposed by conventional theories…our judgement was correct and finally we could take advantage of these excellent homogeneous conditions and ski from 4500 to 2100.
The 5th of June, 2015 at 8.00 am, dropped off by Air Zermatt in Sattel at 4000m (the offical Heli site) the trip started. Ascending up to the top of the couloir on skins we definitely felt the altitude. The roller coaster begins and my client/friends brilliantly negotiated short turns down this vertical couloir. The Canalone has transformed and offers dream conditions which allows us to quickly descent this legendary run. The exit proves to be a challenge and we are obliged to negotiate between the maze of crevasses, seracs and avalanches debris.
By far the best descent of the season! Thank you Claude-Alain, Marc, Patrick and Gilles for your trust and friendship.
Slide show >>Canalone Marinelli
De long en large...
New climbing route at la Dyure
Finally, the description of the new climbing route at la Dyure is on line. Even if the rock has been cleaned with great efforts, be careful and tolerant. Many groups have already climbed this beautiful and homogenous line on superb granit. Pedestrian descent obligatory. Have a nice climb!
Description >> De long en large
High mountains snow
08.05.2015 - Ski touring
Ski resorts are closing too early, as usual, but the season goes on ski touring at high altitude. We've been skiing from the Mont-Blanc Range to the Adamello, included in Zermatt, Saas-Fee, Simplon and the Aletsch area. New horizon every day, great conditions and lof of fun were on the menu the last few weeks. And now the skis are waiting for the next trip, because it's far too early to stop...
Ski January & February
Freeride - Verbier
Season after season, January and February offer great skiing conditions. The lack of snow and persistant snow instability made this year's outings more difficult, but we have shared some great adventures in the mountains. Thanks! Now, I feel ready for spring, definitly the best time of the year for skiing!
Cascade de Bonatchiesse - Val de Bagnes
06.01.2014 - Ice climbing
Despite spring temperatures since the start of the winter season, yes we can ski and climb in the Alps! In 2015, only climbed once before our party, the Bonatchiesse ice waterfall offers great conditions. Your brand new ice axes and screws will enjoy thick ice all the way up. Have a great climb!
Mont Blanc du Tacul - 4248 m
03.10.2014 - Alpine ice Cham
After a warm up in the busy classic Le Vent du Dragon and a pleasant night in the Cosmiques, we left in the middle of the night for the Macho Direct. Our obsession to climb this line ahead of the other parties imposes us to climb in the dark, thanks to the powerful beam of our modern head lamps. We move forward quickly, the daylight appears, the conditions are optimal. We won the bet, lights are visible at the very bottom. Roped up with P. Darbellay who knows the face by heart, we made a beginner's mistake by following a wrong corridor, leaving the Macho on our left. Little motivated to come back on our steps, we continue... Taking advantage of the exceptional conditions of this early autumn, we climb about ten pitches of ice an mixed terrain. The line is beautiful, but certainly not first class, but it tops out close to the summit and is not even mentioned in the guidebooks. For my 10th line in this face, have we made a first ascent? It doesn't matter, we had lot of fun...
Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla - Les chemins de pierre
26.09.2014 - Arolla Rock
First climbed back in 2003, this steep pillar located on the East face of Arolla's Aiguille Rouge is rarely visited. This route offers vertical and technical pitches on a superb quality of rock. Perfectly bolted by Jean-Marie Moos and his friends F. Blanc and C. Berger, this modern line of 8 long pitches offers an amazing climbing set in the delighful scenery of the Val d'Hérens.
Saas Pordoï, Torri del Vajolet, Sella...
August 2014 - Dolomites
My 10th "Rock Trip" to the Dolomites, the 3rd with Didier and the passio is like on the first day. We enjoyed every airy pitch of these historical climbs. Great hospitality, incredible food and also the oportunity to meet nice people, all together make the 2014 trip a success and I'm looking forwards to next time...
Tsalion West & Douves Blanches
7-8.08.2014 - Arolla roc
Ridge climbing on perfect gneiss above Arolla, located in an authentic alpine environment. You should not miss these classic Valais's climbs, away from the crowd...
Grand-Combin 4314 m
01.08.2014 - No Gd-Combin
After a pleasant evening at the Valsorey's hut, the moon was shining and we went to bed very confident. Wake up at 2.50 am, breakfast at 3.00 am, starting the climb at 3.30 am under a cloudy sky! Together with Gilles and Guy, from Luxemburg, and Georg, the Austrian Mountain Guide, we couldn't give up us early... But after only one hour of scrambling, we had to admit the useless situation, the snow didn't freeze at all. We went back down in the dark, through knee's deep wet snow. Later, a serious thunderstorm hit us just below the hut: lightning and thunder all over the place. That was enough to confirm our wise decision. The Grand Combin is waiting for a 2nd attempt..
Tour Ronde 3792 m - Face Nord
19.06.2014 - Climbing season launched !
Summer is here and the mountain climbing season can start. Rock faces, airy ridges or steep North faces are now in good shape.
Skiing in April
Even with unusual warm temperatures and funny weather conditions we enjoyed great trips. April, end of the ski season for many skiers, is also the start of the spring skiing. High up on glaciers, between rocks and seracs, we will often climb above 4000 m with skis on. Mont-Blanc, Mont-Rose, Grand-Combin and many others peaks, in the Bernes Alps, are getting in shape for ski mountaineering only in Mai. Endless season up there...
Brêche Puiseux 3432 m
05.03.2014 - Ski alpinism
From the Aiguille du Midi lift, in Chamonix, there's a large choice of ski mountaineering trips. Most of them requiere a serious alpine experience. The Brêche Puiseux traverse, today in great conditions could be quiet tricky without any tracks. That was, definitly the best outing so far in the season.
Skiing in February
Heliskiing - Ski Touring - Freeride
Best days so far...
Ice Climbing - 28.01.2013
Together with my collegue Raoul, we went South to discover a great spot for ice climbing. In the Valpelline, right above the hamlet of Glacier, there's a choice of 4-5 independant routes. We climbed the central line, Pat & Gab, 4 pitches of interesting and steep climbing which is rarely in shape. The area lays at high altitude but is normally avalanche safe. Bolted belays.
Ice climbing season starts
Ice climbing - 12 & 13.12.2013
Lack of snow often means first ice quality. Conditions in the Val de Bagnes are great and most of the lines are already in shape. Yesterday, together with Andrea and Louis Piguet, we finally bolted the last belay of an esthetic, 5 pitches "goulotte". Today, with Andrea again, we were lucky to bag the first repetition of "La Dame de la forêt", right above Lourtier. That big free standing pillar first climbed two days ago by mountain guides Terry Ralphs and Anders Swensson. In ice climbers memory, that line didn't exist before...
The ski season has started...
Ski touring - 26.11.2013
The Indian Summer is gone and winter is definitly here in Valais. Above Verbier, Bruson and La Fouly, everywhere conditions are excellent for ski touring. The shots below witness it... The ski season on piste has started on the 9th of November at Lac des Vaux where the snow layer was already thick. Two weeks and and a few storms later, one can tell that above 2000 meters it's great and still good down to 1500 meters. The opening of the Mont-Fort area on the 30th of November will launch the 2013/2014 season and open the doors to numerous itineraries.
Pilier Lomasti - Sylvie
Rock climbing - 01.11.2013
Glorious day climbing on the incrediblie gneiss of the Pilier Lomasti (Valle d'Aosta). A must !
A flashback on last September's climbs. Despite early snow falls, the conditins were great in the high mountains. Between a Grand-Combin and a Mont-Blanc, when bad weather North, we also have saved a few days by climbing in the Aosta Valley. Thanks every body for a great summer season and see you soon for a last climb or on the skis...
Tofana, Spigolo Giallo, Marmolada...
August 2013 - Dolomites
With my longtime friend, Didier, we spent the first week in the Dolomites. We have climbed a few classics in the Cortina / Lavaredo area, included the airy and famous Spigolo Giallo on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Just back home, I took the road again to the Dolos with my other half, Andrea. For that second week, we had an ambitious project: the 900 m of the Marmolada South Face. The route (Vinatzer + sortie directe Messner) offers 1400m of challenging climbing.
Andrea's climbing report: "This masterpiece, first climbed by Vinatzer in 1936 is one of the most classic and popular outings on the wall. The climb offers a series of overhangs, series of corners, then via rough eroded rock to chimneys (often wet) followed by the Messner direct exit with some hard technical slabs (impossible to protect). In all 1400m of amazing climbing. Thank you Oli for guiding me up this beautiful challenging face (where route finding skills were a MUST)."
>> slide show
Arête Forbes - Aig. du Chardonnet 3824 m
Mountaineering - 6 & 7.07.2013
From the Trient's hut we can't ignore that line cutting the sky: the Forbes. It's a great climb that offers glacier travelling, ice, snow and best granite. By lack the summit doesn't reach the 4000 m quote and never gets too busy. The ridge offers an unique point of view on the Mont-Blanc and the huge Argentières Basin's North Faces. Good job the youngsters !
Dent Blanche 4357 m - Couloir West-SW
1st ski descent on Dt Blanche
To ski the Dent Blanche, a skier dream that turns to reality. Thanks to local guides Yannick Pralong and Gilles Sierro to have shared this adventure with me. It's the descent of a life time!
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Aspiring guides course
Been there, done that! 17 days of alpine instruction and ski touring trips in the eastern Berner Oberland with... interesting snow and weather conditions. One more trip next week, and the 2012-2013 ski season will be over.
After skiing around Verbier season after season, the circle is getting larger! Zermatt, Chamonix and the Valle d'Aosta still offers a lot to discover to me... April was incredible, with winter conditions for the first two weeks, than spring has sprung. Today the winter is back, and believe me, it's not the last intrusion. Let's enjoy the snow! Let's wait a bit more to climb and bike, the summer will be long enough!
Repentance Super - Cogne
28.03.2013 - Ice climbing
What a great way to end up the ice climbing season with Repentance Super. Located deep into the Valnontey, that steep line is still in good shape despite the spring has sprung in the lowest valleys. With Daniel, collegue guide and passionate ice climber, we had planned that trip for a few weeks. But my diary was too full and our avaibilities never matched...
The Brenva's Glacier - Courmayeur
04.03.2013 - Ski alpinism
Safe snow conditions, filled glaciers, blue bird day and a dream team. All the lights were on green for one the most mythics descents in the Alps, in a post card scenery. With 2400 meters drop of sustained skiing with supreme snow, the Brenva's Glacier is definitly ranked in my top 10.
A season in paradise
What a great 2012-2013 season. Conditions are exeptionnal for skiing, from glaciers to the valley ground. Cold temperatures keep the snow but also built incredible ice climbs. We're fully enjoying the winter day after day.
Severeu's ice fall, Fionnay VS - Switzerland
Severeu's ice fall description
Route 1: III / 6 / 140 m **** Superb line. Nice technical moves in every pitch.
Route 2: III / 5 / 130 m *** The Classic, really nice. Athletic final.
Happy New Year!
Ice climbing - Cogne
16 & 17.01.2013 - Ice
As well as last year, the season continues in the Aosta Valley, where conditions are good thanks to the lack of snow. Touborg is a mega classic, partly in the sun. Photogenic and airy, Lau Bij is getting less busy, but presents two interesting pitches.
Verbier - Mt-Fort
02.01.2012 - Ski touring
We had such a great start of the season, December was exceptionnal. I'm looking forwards to great skiing trips through January, thanks to a better weather forecoast. Don't miss the oportunity to experience, with me, the best powder skiing of the season during the weeks to come.
The traditional Sardinia's family rock trip was too short! A whole climber's life will not be enough to discover all the beauties of the island.
Six Carro 2826 m
25.09.2012 - Alpine climbing
In the Val d'Arpette, Plaisirs d'automne follows the South Spur of the Six Carro. It's a major climb on best granite with dihedrals, slabs, cracks and ridges. Highly recommended during the automn...
Grand Capucin and Noire de Peuterey
7-11.09.2012 - Alpine climbing
From the best rock, on the Grand Cap, to the longest ridge, the South of Noire de Peuterey... Two of the greatest rock classics in the Mont-Blanc Range that really deserve to be on your alpine CV.
Monte Rosa Range
18-20.08.2012 - Mountaineering
Castor, Liskamm, Mont-Rose... 3 memorable days with Stephen on the highest peaks of the Alps, between Italy and Switzerland.
Chamonix - 100 % Granite
7-8.07.2012 - Alpine climbing
Despite a very instable weather, we were able to climb two classics in Chamonix. The Vaucher on the Peigne and the North-East ridge of the Aiguille de l'M after the morning's showers were serious challenges for the youngsters. Well done guys !
Dolomites rock trip
29.07-03.08.12 - Dolomites
I'm just back from a fabulous week climbing IV+ classics in the Dolomiti at Passo Sella and Catinaccio. Vertical and exposed like nowhere else some 100 years old routes opened by Piaz, Dibona or Vinatzer still offer today lot of pleasure.
Why not together, when you want >> Dolomites course
Salbitschijen 2981 m - West Ridge
18.07.2012 - Alpine climbing
In the Uri's Alpes, Switzerland, the Salbit's West Ridge offers 1000 meters of pure rock climbing. It's an extrimely long and fabulous alpine climb which totally deserves its reputation. Because of his length, stenuous difficulties and tortuous itinerary it's better not to underestimate the challenge. Highly recommended to vertical marathoneers.
Mountain Guide exams - ASGM
7-17.05.2012 - Ski touring
Spring ski touring in the Bernese Oberland, following a challenging programm to discover the whole Range. Lot of snow and sun, but often very cold; May is definitly the season to ski 4000er peaks and vast glaciers. Back to Grindelwald with a big smile, despite some minor frosbite on faces, all the aspiring guides are very proud of their success. Well done!
Poème Roc - Cornettes de Bise
15.06.2012 - Rock climbing
Between Valais and Haute-Savoie, the Cornettes de Bise are a major ski touring and rock climbing destination. Opened in 1988, Poème Roc is newly rebolted and offers also two more pitches. You should not miss that seven pitches climb, from 6a to 6c, on the perfect limestone of the South Face!
La Dyure - Entremont
New multipitch climbing route
Last November, we were desperate to get some snow... I was keeping busy head and arms and scrutinizing the sky.
Nice route, on excellent granite, in an peaceful and charming environment. The first teams to attempt it, will have to tolerate some sections on lichenous rock. A brush is available at the base. Have a nice climb!
Schwarztor 3731 m - Zermatt
17.04.2012 - Ski touring
Easily accessible from the Klein Matterhorn, the Schwarztor between Valle d'Aosta and Zermatt is an outstanding ski trip in the high mountains. When conditions are as good as today, it's a memorable outing. Enjoy the pictures...
Aig. du Chardonnet 3824 m - Bettembourg/Charlet
29.03.2012 - Goulotte Bettembourg / Charlet
At the end of a short but interesting ice climbing season, we have to go high to use our tools. Climbed in a day from les Grands-Montets, with skis for the approach and the descent, it's a strenuous outing. Like all the North Faces in the area, the line is pretty dry with only small sections with snow. Another nice trip in good company...
Verbier, where else?
10.03.2012 - Freeride
The best week of the season so far, and some people already think the ski season is over! Top conditions and a lot of snow in the Verbier St-Bernard destination, will offer great skiing until mid May...
To the Walzer on skis
27 to 29.02.2012
Around Monte Rosa
Bec des Rosses 3223 m - Verbier
14.02.2012 - Steep skiing
Safe snow conditions, high technical and physical level were obligatory to ski that incredible couloir. What a great ski adventure!
10.02.2012 - Ice climbing
In Switzerland, it's freezing cold for more than a week. All low altitude water falls are frozen into solid ice and climbed every day by locals ice climbers. It's time to climb this ephemeral lines before the break down at the next rise of temperature...
Ice climbing in Aosta Valley
31.01 & 1.02.2012 - Ice climbing
1st day: Sogno Realizzato, in the Val de Rhêmes, is a climb you can plan even with avalanches danger. We climbed this beautiful 2 pitch line under heavy snow fall and siberian temperature. It's a god bad weather option...
2nd day: At Cogne, Di Fronte al Tradimento, located in front of the mythic Repentance offers 3 interesting pitches. Plenty of hooking possibilites up the steepsection is very enjoyable, even if there's a lot of air below the crampons. Not to miss...
JYM on the Pigne d'Arolla
26.01.2012 - Heliskiing
Sunshine, powder and a dream team all day long, that was a memorable experience.
Cogne - Candelabro del Coyote
12.01.2012 - Ice Climbing
Located in the Lillaz Valley, the Candelabro del Coyote offers 4 beautiful pitches.
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